Natural Cosmetics Ingredients

Lush Natural Cosmetics

 

By Janice Fickell

By Naomi teWinkel

By Kathy Lycka

By Noelle Hunt

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  Key Terms and Unusual Natural Ingredients
 
 


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  The following is a list of terms and natural cosmetic ingredients which are defined for your convenience. The list is not exhaustive but it will grow over time. If you have a term or natural ingredient you wished defined, please email us at lushlife@lush.com and we’ll get our experts on it.

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  ALKANET
• A red coloring obtained from extraction of the herblike tree root grown in Asia and the Mediterranean
• Gives color to LUSH products like Pied de Pepper, Helping Hands, In The Nude bath meil and others.


AMMONIUM LAURYL SULPHATE
• This is a shampoo base derived from coconuts. It has been used for many years to make shampoo lather up.
• It cleanses the hair and separates the strands to give volume.


ALOE VERA
• Helps to heal wounds and stimulates regeneration. Aloe Vera is both astringent and emollient; it has anti-fungal, anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties. Find Aloe Vera in Cosmetic Lad, Skins Shangri La and Dreamwash to name a few.

ANTISEPTIC
• Prevents tissue degeneration and combats bacteria
• You will notice that MANY essential oils are antiseptic; that's because PHENOL is a constituent of many oils
• phenol is most commonly used in DETTOL


ASTRINGENT
• Refers to something that makes tissues of the skin tighten and bind so as to 'close' the pores

BOTANICALS
• Fresh plant life of which we use a significant amount

CALAMINE
• Consists of zinc oxide with about 5% ferric oxide that occurs as a pink powder
• slightly antiseptic and has soothing properties for inflamed skin conditions; perfect for Fresh Farmacy


CALENDULA OIL
• This is also known as Tagetes oil or Marigold oil in our product listings, it is a natural ant-inflamatory and skin soother. Useful for many skin conditions sush as rashes, sunburns, dry cracked skin, etc. Products containing Calendula Oil are Helping Hands, Cosmetic Lad, Ambrosia, Fair Trade and Lip Service.

CETEARYL (CETYL) ALCOHOL
• It is derived from coconuts; used as secondary emulsifier that helps to make an emulsion stable and the cream heavier.

CHLOROPHYLL
• This is water grown algae; it is used in our products for green coloring. Products containing chlorophyll have been found to protect against the effects of ultraviolet radiation. You can find chlorophyll in products such as Jungle, Tramp, Fox in the Flowers and Mask of Magnaminty.

CLAY
• 'Nature's detoxifier' - increases circulation, absorbs toxins and bacteria to heal, cleanses, revitalizes, and deodorizes
• Rich in mineral content; the body is made of the same mineral content
• Has natural antiseptic properties
• Non-toxic and not a known allergen
• Found in LUSH products such as FRESH masks and dusting powders
• 3 different types of clay used:
           -KAOLIN (China clay) - a strong, deep-cleansing clay
           -FULLER'S EARTH - a gentle cleansing clay
           -BENTONITE - often used for its absorbency and binding abilities

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COCOA POWDER
• Chocolate for the skin? Yes it's full on anti-oxidants and helps to soften oily skin, without leaving feeling too heavy.

COCOA BUTTER
• Derived from the roasted seeds of the cocoa plant
• Used in LUSH products such as massage bars, bath melts, and moisturizers to soften and moisturize


COCOAMPHOCARBOXYGLYCINATE (disodium cocoamphodiacetate)
• It is derived from coconuts; works with sodium lauryl ether (laureth) sulphate and makes the shampoo base milder, so it's not so harsh on the skin and hair.

COCOMIDE DEA
• Derived from coconuts; used to make bubbles smaller so that the foam looks thicker and richer.

DECOCTION
• A form of infusion (defined below)
• when harder plant material like roots, stems, bark, and seeds are simmered gently in water to extract the active ingredients E.g. lentil decoction in Volcano


ELDERFLOWER
• It soothes skin irritations and is a powerful anti-oxidant; also increases perspiration. Lush products containing Elderflower are Oxeo Cube and Imperialis.

EMOLLIENT

• Refers to a substance that is softening or soothing E.g. bananas, avocados, or linseed gel.
• LUSH moisturizers and massage bars are emollients


EMULSION
• A combination of oil and water to form the base for moisturizers; an emulsifier like stearic acid or TEA is used to blend the oil and water together.

ENZYMES
• Papain and Bromelain are the enzymes that exist in papaya and pineapple. These energized protein molecules play an important role in just about all of the biochemical activities within our bodies. These enzymes are particularly useful in our products as they provide cellular energy, which is useful in repairing all tissues, organs and cell. Products containing these are Enzymion, Rehab and I love Juicy.

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ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS
• These acids are the basic building blocks of which fats and oils are composed. The fatty acids that cannot be made by our bodies and are necessary for good health are called essential fatty acids.
• They are essential for rebuilding and producing new cells and are beneficial for eczema and psoriasis. These acids are found in sesame oil and evening primrose oil. Products containing these are
Afterlife, Enzymion, Skins Shangri La and Skin Drink.

GELS
• Important bases that give the product ease of application and a pleasant texture.
• usually found in FRESH face masks:

1. SEAWEED EXTRACT GEL (e.g. Irish moss or Caragheen) is used in products for drier skin to soften and moisturize.

2. BENTONITE GEL - made from Bentonite clay, is for normal to oily skin and helps create a smooth feel to the product.

3. LINSEED GEL - is the gel that forms when flaxseeds are boiled in water; very difficult and time consuming to produce; a rich emollient and soothing to the skin.


GLYCERIN
• A natural humectant (attracts and holds moisture) derived from animal or vegetable fats (ours is always from vegetable) that is commonly found in LUSH products such as cleansers, moisturizers, soaps, and FRESH masks.
• Helps skin to absorb moisture but is not moisturizing on its own; in the presence of water, it binds the water to its structure to penetrate the skin.


honey
• Honey has been used for thousands of years for food, medicine and cosmetics. It is 98% sugar and 2% enzymes, vitamins and minerals. Honey has a stimulating and toning effect on the skin and is a mild antiseptic.

Honey is also a natural humectant and bacteria will not grow in it. Both of these factors make honey a valuable component for moisturizing formulations. The darker honeys are better for skin care because they contain more minerals. You can find honey in Flying Fox, Enchanted Eye Cream and Honey I Washed The Kids soap to name a few.


HUMECTANT
• Attracts moisture to skin and helps to lock it in to hydrate skin E.g. glycerin or propylene glycol.

JOJOBA OIL
• This is an excellent moisturizer, perfect for the face as it dissolves sebum. Jojoba is a natural wax, so it is good as a natural preservative for prolonging the shelf life of products made with essential oils. Find Jojoba in Retread, Fuel, Skins Shagri La and Mirror Mirror.

LAURAMIDE DEA
• It is derived from coconut and palm kernel oils; it prevents the harsh stripping action of the shampoo base by 'coating' the hair, giving it bounce.

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LAURYL BETAINE
• It is derived from coconut and palm kernel oils; it boosts the foam in shampoo, so it's full of bubbles.

LINSEED INFUSION
• Is used in shaving creams and Helping Hands; we use it to soften the skin, to give a silky slip to the product and to protect it. It re-hydrates the skin and stops irritation.

MARSHMALLOW
• It soothes and heals the skin, mucous membranes and other tissues externally and internally. You can find this in Lite Lip Balm.

METHYL & PROPYL PARABENS
• These are the safest and mildest preservatives we can find.

MONO PROPYLENE GLYCOL (MPG)
• This synthetically made humectant helps to prevent the hair and skin from drying out. Attracts and helps moisture to absorb the skin and hair.

NETTLE
• It contains vital minerals that are essential in many disorders; it contains both chlorophyll and silicon.  Silicon is specially good for strong nails and hair. You can find Nettle in Caca Brun, Reincarnate and Recon.

INFUSION
• when lighter plant material like flowers and leaves are steeped in hot water to make a 'tea' E.g. lime flower infusion in FRESH masks

PERFUME
• In LUSH terms, refers to 'fragrance'

• Is one or more of over one hundred different perfumes in the form of essential oils, absolutes, and infusions used to create the secret LUSH fragrances.


RHASSOUL MUD
• This deep cleansing mud comes from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco; we use it in Reincarnate and in Honey Bee bath bomb. It is softening, soothing and calming on the skin. It is also a natural thorough cleanser and natural exfoliant.

SHEA BUTTER
• The natural fat obtained from the fruit of the African karite tree.
• Traditionally used for a variety of skin problems such as eczema, sunburn, and dermatitis, as well as aching muscles.
• Used in LUSH products such as massage bars and moisturizers to soften and moisturize.


SODIUM LAURETH (& LAURYL) SULPHATE
• This is a shampoo base that is derived from coconut and palm kernel oils; it foams and thoroughly cleanses, perfect for shampoos like Antiphilitron.

STEARIC ACID
• It derives from palm kernel oil, part of the primary emulsifying system (blends oil & water together); works with TEA.

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ST. JOHNS WORT
• It may help inhibit viral infections including herpes; find this in Imperialis.

TALC
• Some controversy on this ingredient, but only when it's made into talcum powder, with other ingredients and when used around babies in powder form. We use it in its natural state to absorb dirt, grease and grime from deep under the surface on the skin, and to give a soft smooth feel to the mask.

TRIETHANLAMINE (TEA)
• This is an emulsifier that works with stearic acid.

TINCTURE

• Herbal preparations made with alcohol; practical because alcohol preserves extractions; long shelf life (30-40yrs); can use vodka, brandy or rum.
• in formulas, generally used just a few drops at a time because they are concentrated.


WHEAT GERM OIL
• It is a good source of vitamin E, which makes it an excellent oil for use on the skin. You can find this in Afterlife, Enzymion and Skins Shangri La.

WITCH HAZEL

• Made from the leaves and twigs of Hamamelis virginiana, acts as an astringent and reduces inflammation. This can be found in Razorantium and Prince Triple Orange shaving creams.

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