Let’s get physical! Five tips on how to exfoliate skin
We all like our complexion to look and feel a certain way, but did you know that the top layer of your skin targeted by invasive exfoliating products is actually there to do a really important job?
Your skin barrier forms an essential physical, chemical and microbial barrier against environmental stressors and infection. The very top is made of skin squames: flat, dead skin cells that are being constantly replenished from beneath and constantly shed, carrying away dirt, debris, microbes and more. It takes around 28 days for a new skin cell to reach the surface and form that protective physical barrier, although over time our rate of skin cell turnover slows and careful exfoliation can lend a hand.
Here’s how to exfoliate your way to a soft, glowing complexion without overtaxing your skin barrier.
1. <b>Respect your skin barrier (whether you’re using a chemical exfoliator or a physical exfoliator)</b>
Start gently. When it comes to exfoliation, less is more, and overstimulating our skin barrier with multiple punishing products or invasive exfoliating procedures can affect its ability to protect us. Products that leave the skin in a very sensitive state (such as those that dramatically increase UV sensitivity) are easy to overdo, and better handled by a professional.
Most of the time, you’ll be choosing between formulas made primarily with physical exfoliators (which remove old skin cells through manual action) and chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid (which work by disrupting how cells connect). While the latter are often marketed as gentler, some chemical exfoliators can be very strong. In fact, an advantage of physical exfoliators for sensitive skin is that you can instantly tell whether the gradient is right for you, meaning you are not going to overdo things!
Long before acids became a thing, the Lush inventors were working with naturally exfoliating enzymes found in fresh fruits. Pineapple, for example, contains bromelain, which helps to break down surface skin squames for brighter-looking skin (try Kalamazoo or Pineapple facial wash to experience it for yourself). These ingredients exfoliate the skin without an action. Rather than add isolated enzymes like AHAs into formulas (as is the trend today), we choose to chop, juice or blend fresh fruits in so your skin can also benefit from all the vitamins and minerals in the fruit.
And forget so-called ‘micro tears’, our physically exfoliating materials are always carefully processed and paired with ingredients that will soften and care for the skin in our formulas. Lush Co-Founder and Product Inventor, Helen Ambrosen explains, “When a Lush product physically exfoliates the skin, the action is always balanced by the addition of softening emollient ingredients such as butters or vegetable oils to prevent the skin from being damaged in any way, so it is left very soft as well as cleansed of any surface skin squames.”
2. Find the right gradient and routine for your skin
When it comes to exfoliating, there is no ‘one size fits all’ approach, and different gradients suit different complexions and needs. Lush Co-Founder and Product Inventor, Rowena Bird explains, “The size of the grain plays a huge part in the effect received. Even a small
particle is enough for you to have a good scrub.Then you come down to how hard it is. If it’s really hard, like the salt in Ocean Salt, you’re going to get a really vigorous scrub. But if you’ve got sensitive skin you need a gentle scrub like the almond material in Angels On Bare Skin. It’s about looking at our collection of scrubs and then finding the grade and size and texture that suits your skin.”
The type of gradient you use might also differ depending on how often you like to exfoliate and whether you are applying product to your complexion or body (the skin on the face is more delicate). There is no hard and fast rule about how often you ‘should’ - it’s about what works best for you. “You may want to exfoliate once a day or once a week,” continues Rowena. “It’s about being aware of your skin and sensing its needs. What you put on your skin and how you treat it, is as important as what you put in your body.”
3. Choose natural exfoliating ingredients
Mother Nature has provided us with a cornucopia of naturally beneficial exfoliating ingredients to use in our products, from polenta in Let The Good Times Roll or aduki beans in Mask Of Magnaminty to golden castor sugar in Illipe Of Faith. When sourced carefully, natural materials like tagua nuts (a biodegradable byproduct of the button industry found in Happy Skin facial exfoliator) can support local communities, reduce waste and minimise harm when they enter our waterways.
Natural materials are also more familiar to the skin’s microbiome (a unique community of microorganisms that form part of your skin barrier and your immune response) than synthetics. After all, we have only been relying on synthetics for the last 60 odd years, compared to hundreds of thousands of years of human evolution. Having a complex skincare routine and using lots of highly preserved personal care products can affect the balance of useful microbial species that live on your face, so we like to buck the trend.
Through clever formulation, quick dispatch from our factories, and shorter shelf lives, we’re able to offer a huge range of scrubs that are formulated to stay fresh, effective and safe to use without the use of synthetic preservatives (as defined under Annex 5 of the E.U Cosmetic Regulations). We also formulate with plenty of natural ingredients that have nourished our bodies (inside and out) for thousands of years. For a completely natural and self-preserving scrub, try our bestselling Angels On Bare Skin fresh cleanser.
4. Tailor application to how your skin is feeling on the day
We advise wetting the face before use, this helps to plump the skin up a little and protect it whilst exfoliating. Using circular upward motions helps to boost circulation and tone the skin, and you can also tailor your exfoliating action to how your skin is feeling that day. Add water to a pinch of one of our fresh cleanser rolls like Angels On Bare Skin, Herbalism, Let The Good Times Roll and Dark Angels to make your preferred texture, whether that’s a firm paste or a gentle cleansing milk.
The same tip applies to Body scrubs. Simply apply one of our potted body exfoliators (such as Magic Crystals) to your skin, using circular motions to invigorate and soften. More sensitive skin will benefit from gentler exfoliating actions and a softer gradient. Bestselling Angels On Bare Skin is gentle enough for sensitive skin on the face and body, thanks to its softening blend of almond, rose, glycerine and lavender. Listen to your skin and skip exfoliating that day if your complexion is feeling stressed.
5. Pair with simple but effective before and aftercare
To get the best results from your face exfoliator, it’s advisable to ensure the skin is clean of any makeup or sunscreen first. A gentle, oil-based and humectant-rich cleanser like Ultrabland or Ultraplant will lift away excess sebum, dirt and residue, as well as draw water into the epidermis - perfect for prepping the skin for a scrub. After exfoliating, you may wish to use a toner to remove any scrub residue and lightly hydrate the skin. We suggest following with a facial moisturiser as adequate moisture levels are essential to keep the skin desquamating healthily, and to avoid scale or flaking (the water content of a healthy top layer of skin should be at least 10%).
Emollient ingredients like evening primrose oil and murumuru butter fill the gaps between desquamated skin cells on the surface, creating a smoother appearance, while occlusive ingredients like beeswax, jojoba, argan and olive oils protect the skin from transepidermal water loss. Some super ingredients like cocoa and shea butters do both! Bestselling Vanishing Cream hydrates without heaviness meaning it’s ideal for oily or breakout-prone skin or those who prefer a lighter touch to their moisturiser, while customers tell us that Celestial is especially good for extra sensitive skin. Dry skin can be quenched with Skin Drink, Peace, or Skin's Shangri La. For the most luxurious skincare ingredients, opt for Gorgeous: our glow-enhancing blend of organic avocado oil, orange blossom honey water and cold-pressed grapeseed and evening primrose oils carefully formulated to support your skin barrier.
Ready to exfoliate with confidence? Check out our full range of face and body exfoliators.
Further reading
Maibach, H et al (ed) 1999. Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function, CRC Press.
Del Rosso JQ et al, 2011. ‘The clinical relevance of maintaining the functional integrity of the stratum corneum in both healthy and disease-affected skin. Journal of Clinical Aesthetic Dermatology, Volume 4, issue 9.
Nguyen AV et al 2019. ‘The Dynamics of the Skin's Immune System’, International Journal of Molecular Science, Volume 12, Issue 20
Niyonsaba, F et al 2017. ‘Friends or Foes? Host defense (antimicrobial) peptides and proteins in human skin diseases’, Experimental Dermatology, Volume 26, Issue 11.
Chiller, K et al 2001. ‘Skin Microflora and Bacterial Infections of the Skin’, Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, Volume 6, Issue 3.
Baquero, F et al 2021. ‘Epidermis as a Platform for Bacterial Transmission’, Frontiers in Immunology, Volume 12, Article 774018.
Wallen-Russell, C et al 2019. ‘The Role of Every-Day Cosmetics in Altering the Skin Microbiome: A Study Using Biodiversity’, Cosmetics, Volume 6, Issue 2.
Staudinger, T et al, 2011. ‘Molecular analysis of the prevalent microbiota of human male and female forehead skin compared to forearm skin and the influence of make-up’, Journal of Applied Microbiology, Volume 110, Issue 6.
Datir, M et al 2020. ‘The effect of preservatives used on cosmetics in skin microbiome’, World Journal of Pharmaceutical Research, Volume 9, Issue 7.
Holland, T et al 2002. ‘Cosmetics What is Their Influence on the Skin Microflora?' The American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, Volume 3, Issue 7.
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