Ingredient

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract (Vanilla Extract)

Vanilla planifolia

You think vanilla’s scent is boring? You’ve never smelled real, natural vanilla. This extract, called an absolute, is complex, warm, deep, mouthwatering… a delight to the senses!

There are many ways to extract the beautiful, comforting scent of vanilla pods. The most potent is certainly vanilla absolute. Obtained by solvent extraction, it yields a thick, deep-brown, concentrated liquid.

What are the benefits of vanilla extract in cosmetics?

• Divine scent: sweet and spicy, it comforts even the hardest of hearts.
• Mood-boosting: inhaling vanilla is uplifting, de-stressing and aphrodisiac.
• Skin-loving: it has soothing and softening benefits to the skin and scalp.
• Microbiome-friendly: it gently cleanses thanks to its antibacterial properties.
• Humectant: vanilla’s sugars draw moisture into the skin.

Spotlight on the benefits of vanillin

Vanillin naturally occurs in the pods and is the main source of the characteristic vanilla scent. It has been studied for decades and has shown antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties when applied to the skin. It also showed antidepressant properties when ingested or inhaled. Since 1858, chemists have been able to synthesise the compound, creating a cheaper alternative to natural vanilla that is still widely used today.

Where does Lush purchase vanilla absolute?

The vanilla trade is complex and requires constant adaptation. Luckily, at Lush, a team of passionate buyers works to find the best possible sources, even through crises. We primarily source our vanilla pods from Uganda, except when we specifically need the bourbon variety produced in Madagascar. They are then sent to Grasse, a city in France known as the ‘world’s perfume capital’. There, they put the pods through a solvent extraction process to produce a high-quality, fragrant absolute.

Our work with two long-standing Ugandan suppliers ensures a reliable supply, allowing us to mitigate potential shortages by diversifying our sources. 

The vanilla orchid grows on vines that climb trees and naturally needs shade to thrive, making it a perfect candidate for agroforestry. For instance, it can be cultivated alongside other high-value crops, such as plantain and cocoa trees, enhancing the income streams of Ugandan farmers. In addition, by practising agroforestry and diversifying their crops, farmers contribute significantly to biodiversity. Read all about it here.

Why is natural vanilla so rare?

Vanilla beans are produced by an orchid that grows in tropical climates near the equator. Not only does it need hand pollination within a few hours of its flowers opening, but the resulting pods must undergo a long, complex process before becoming the dark brown spice we can buy. If proper temperatures and humidity levels are not met, the pods can become sour or mouldy. Like all good things, vanilla requires experience and time.